How Much Should I Save for Retirement?
By the Calculator.hair team · Updated · 8 min read
Short answer
Most people should save 10% to 15% of pre-tax income for retirement, counting any employer match, starting in their 20s or early 30s. To size the goal, multiply the yearly spending your savings must cover, after Social Security and pensions, by 25. That is the 4% rule: $40,000 a year from savings needs about $1 million. Starting at 45 instead of 25 can more than double the required savings rate.
Key takeaways
- A savings rate of 10% to 15% of gross income, including the employer match, works for most people who start by their early 30s.
- The 4% rule sets a target of about 25 times the first-year spending your portfolio must cover.
- Social Security shrinks the target a lot: in our example, $2,000 a month of benefits cut the amount needed at 67 from $1.87 million to $990,335.
- Waiting costs more than most people expect: the required savings rate in our example rises from 7% at 25 to 18.7% at 45.
- 2026 contribution limits are $24,500 for a 401(k) and $7,500 for an IRA, with extra catch-up amounts from age 50.
How much of my income should I save for retirement?
Save at least 10% of your pre-tax income, and aim for 15% if you can, including whatever your employer contributes. Pre-tax income means gross pay before taxes and deductions. A 10% rate is usually enough for someone who starts in their mid-20s and works until about 67; people who start later, plan to retire early or expect high spending in retirement need more.
The percentage is only a rule of thumb because it hides three assumptions: how many years you have left to save, the return your investments earn, and how much of your paycheck you will need to replace. The retirement calculator replaces the rule with a projection built on your own age, income, balance and savings rate, and tells you the extra percentage needed if you fall short.
How much do I need to retire?
A common estimate is 25 times the yearly spending your savings must cover, after subtracting Social Security, pensions and any other guaranteed income. To get there, start with how much income you will want in retirement. Many planners use 70% to 80% of pre-retirement income, because payroll taxes, commuting and retirement saving stop when the paycheck does, while health costs tend to rise.
Then subtract the income you will get without touching savings. Social Security replaces a larger share of pay for lower earners than for higher earners, so your own estimate from ssa.gov matters more than any average. What remains is the gap your nest egg has to fill each year. Our guide on how Social Security is calculated shows how that benefit is worked out from your earnings record.
- Step 1: Retirement spending = current income × 70% to 80% (or your own budget).
- Step 2: Gap = retirement spending − Social Security − pension − other income.
- Step 3: Nest egg target ≈ gap × 25.
What is the 4% rule?
The 4% rule says you can withdraw 4% of your portfolio in the first year of retirement, then raise that dollar amount with inflation each year, and historically the money would have lasted about 30 years in most US market periods. It comes from studies of past stock and bond returns published in the 1990s. Dividing 1 by 4% gives 25, which is where the 25-times target comes from.
The rule is a planning shortcut, not a guarantee. It assumes a mix of stocks and bonds, a 30-year retirement and spending that only changes with inflation. A longer retirement, high investment fees, or a market crash in the first few years of withdrawals all argue for starting lower, around 3% to 3.5%. Retiring later, having a pension, or being willing to cut spending after bad years can justify starting a little higher.
| Yearly spending from savings | Target at 4% (25×) | Target at 3.5% (about 28.6×) | Target at 3% (about 33.3×) |
|---|---|---|---|
| $20,000 | $500,000 | $571,429 | $666,667 |
| $30,000 | $750,000 | $857,143 | $1,000,000 |
| $40,000 | $1,000,000 | $1,142,857 | $1,333,333 |
| $60,000 | $1,500,000 | $1,714,286 | $2,000,000 |
| $80,000 | $2,000,000 | $2,285,714 | $2,666,667 |
How much will I need? A worked example
Here is what our retirement calculator produces for a 35-year-old earning $70,000 a year with $30,000 already saved and 10% of pay going into retirement accounts. The assumptions are the calculator's defaults: retire at 67, plan to age 85, need 75% of pre-retirement income, raises of 3% a year, a 6% average return and 3% inflation.
Without counting Social Security, the calculator says this person needs $1,871,584 at 67 and is on track for $1,098,539, a shortfall of $773,045. Closing it would take another 8.5% of income, about $498 a month at today's pay. That looks alarming, but it assumes savings must pay for everything.
Add Social Security of $2,000 a month in today's dollars (an assumption for illustration; check your own figure) and the picture flips. The first-year income needed from savings falls from $131,254 to $69,452, the amount needed at 67 drops to $990,335, and the projected $1,098,539 leaves a surplus of $108,204. In today's dollars, the target is $384,584. The figures at 67 are larger because they are in future dollars after 32 years of 3% inflation.
Why is this lower than 25 times spending? In today's dollars, this person needs $52,500 a year (75% of $70,000) minus $24,000 of Social Security, or roughly $28,500 from savings. Twenty-five times that is about $712,500. The calculator's figure is smaller because it assumes an 18-year retirement and a 6% return during retirement, while the 4% rule plans for 30 years and a cautious withdrawal rate. If you could live past 85, the 4% rule's larger number is the safer one to plan around.
How much should I save if I start late?
The later you start, the higher the share of income you must save, because each dollar has fewer years to compound. The table uses the same example (a $70,000 income, $2,000 a month of Social Security in today's dollars, retirement at 67, a 6% return and 3% inflation) but assumes nothing has been saved yet, and shows the savings rate our calculator says is needed to reach the target.
Starting at 25 needs about 7% of pay. Waiting until 45 pushes the requirement to 18.7%, and starting at 55 needs 40.1%, which few budgets can manage. Late starters usually combine several levers: saving more, retiring a few years later, cutting planned spending, and delaying Social Security. In this example, retiring at 70 instead of 67 with the same assumptions lowers the required rate for a 35-year-old from 10.9% to 8.3%. The compound interest formula explains why the early years carry so much weight.
| Age you start saving | Savings rate needed | Monthly saving at today's pay |
|---|---|---|
| 25 | 7.0% | $411 |
| 30 | 8.7% | $508 |
| 35 | 10.9% | $638 |
| 40 | 14.1% | $821 |
| 45 | 18.7% | $1,092 |
| 50 | 26.2% | $1,528 |
| 55 | 40.1% | $2,338 |
Where should I put my retirement savings?
Put money first into any workplace plan up to the full employer match, then into an IRA or back into the workplace plan, and use a taxable account after that. An employer match is free money: a 50% match on the first 6% of pay adds 3% of salary to your savings for nothing more than contributing. Our 401(k) calculator shows how the match and annual raises compound over a career.
The 2026 limits from the IRS are $24,500 of employee deferrals to a 401(k), 403(b) or most 457 plans, plus an $8,000 catch-up at 50 or older, or $11,250 at ages 60 to 63. IRAs allow $7,500, plus a $1,100 catch-up at 50 or older. Whether to use Roth or traditional accounts depends mostly on whether your tax rate is higher now or in retirement; see Roth IRA vs traditional IRA for the comparison.
| Account (2026) | Under 50 | Age 50 and older | Ages 60 to 63 |
|---|---|---|---|
| 401(k), 403(b), most 457 plans | $24,500 | $32,500 | $35,750 |
| Traditional or Roth IRA | $7,500 | $8,600 | $8,600 |
What changes how much I need?
Five factors move the target the most: when you retire, how long you live, what you spend, your investment returns and inflation. Retiring later helps three ways at once, because you save for more years, draw down for fewer years, and get a larger Social Security check for each year you delay claiming, up to age 70.
Health care is the cost most people underestimate. Medicare starts at 65, so retiring earlier means paying for private coverage until then, and Medicare itself has premiums, deductibles and gaps. Housing is the other big swing: entering retirement with a paid-off mortgage can cut the spending your savings must cover by a large amount.
Returns and inflation work against each other. Every projection in this guide assumes a steady 6% return and 3% inflation, but real markets vary from year to year, and a bad sequence early in retirement does more damage than the same returns later. Rerun the numbers every year or two with your actual balance, and treat any single projection as a range rather than a promise.
Calculators in this guide
Frequently asked questions
Is $1 million enough to retire?
Under the 4% rule, $1 million supports about $40,000 a year of inflation-adjusted withdrawals for roughly 30 years. Whether that is enough depends on your spending and how much Social Security and pensions cover on top of it.
How much should I have saved for retirement by 40?
There is no official benchmark. A better test is to run your own numbers: in our example, a 40-year-old earning $70,000 with nothing saved would need to put away about 14.1% of pay to retire at 67, so any existing balance lowers that rate.
Does the 15% savings rate include my employer match?
Yes, the usual 10% to 15% guideline counts all contributions. If your employer adds 3% of salary, contributing 12% yourself gets you to 15%.
Is the 4% rule still valid?
It remains a reasonable starting point for a 30-year retirement, but it is based on past US returns and is not guaranteed. Many planners suggest 3% to 3.5% for early retirees or anyone planning for more than 30 years.
How much do I need to retire at 62?
More than at 67, because savings must last longer and Social Security pays less if you claim early. Claiming at 62 cuts the benefit by 30% for anyone born in 1960 or later, so your portfolio has to fill a bigger gap for more years.
This guide is for education and is not financial, tax or legal advice. Confirm figures with a qualified professional or your lender.